Controversially I visited the Yasukuni war shrine which is in the news every day here (some war criminals are enshrined here which means they are on a list of war dead. In order to annoy the Chinese and Koreans, the current PM is the first one to visit regularly but the emperor doesn't visit) Not much controversy. No nationalists. Nice gardens. Quite a few old veteran looking types.

The most interesting bit was the museum of war which is more like the museum of "it wasn't our fault, at all" which has a fairly warped view of history as far as I could see.